The arrival at the ultramodern Da Nand airport is a complete change of scenery from traditional Hanoi. The city is new, immaculate : occidentalised. It is also very hot, 29 degrees, and very dry. Our new guide is a very stylish woman, Ha. However, this modernity does not last long as we are about to plonge into the magic of a 15th-century international port : Hoi An.
Visit of a marble workshop and a silk factory
Hoi An, ancient harbour town
The city is very cute: the homogeneus architecture is made up of wooden structures and brick walls, all painted in yellow.
Hoi An was at the top of its activity in the 15th century, when it was a very important international port who attracted wealthy people. Chinese ones were key settlers as they were fleeing war in their country. The enchanting city design dates from this era. However, Hoi An got slowly fade away. Centuries after centuries, the The Bon river collected sediments which accumulated at the bottom of the river, until deep-sea ships could not pass any more. Today, the river is divided into three arms.
The end of portuaire activities led to a general economic decline. “It is an exceptionally well-preserved example of a small-scale trading port active the 15th to 19th centuries which traded widely, both with the countries of Southeast and East Asia and with the rest of the world. Its decline in the later 19th century ensured that it has retained its traditional urban tissue to a remarkable degree.” (Source : Unesco)
The city fell into oblivion until Vietnam opened up to tourism in 1995. It is listed on the UNESCO World Heritage : : “The town reflects a fusion of indigenous and foreign cultures (principally Chinese and Japanese with later European influences) that combined to produce this unique survival. “
Hoi An today: tourism and tailors
At first sight, I feel that Hoi An is a bit a victim of its own success, as the colourful shops tend to overtake the architectural unity. But my partner is even more concerned because he realises that I am giving in to the shopping fever. Hoi An’s tailoring shops are indeed very renown: everything that be made to measure, even the shoes !
A number of more surprises await us.
Boutique Hoi An Resort Hotel, on the beach
This is the only part of our trip to benefit being on the beach, apart from the mythical Ha Long Bay at the end, in three weeks’ time. For that reason, we had invested in an hotel by the beach, a bit further out of the city centre. After this quick tour of the town, we run to the sea before sundown (at 5pm). We admire the sun going down on the land and not on the sea as it is back home in Bordeaux, which looks a bit weird. We then go for a swim in the swimming pool.
Hoi An by night: enchanting lanterns
Ha had convinced us visit the city center by night, but without telling us why, as she wanted to let us the joy of the discover. Although very tired from the jet lag, we trust her and take the but to the city centre. I stood bewildered at the splendid sight of the city centre being entirely, and solely, lit by colourful lanterns ! It really feel like another world, a wide step back into history.
Floating lanterns
The Thy Bon river is also lively with colours as tourists buy floating lanterns and put them on the water.
And this is how my “little week end” ends. Only two days in Indochina and I have lived sufficient great experiences to keep talking about it for decades.
