I expected a simple fishing course – stimulating, of course – but not to be deeply touched by these people who feed us. I found myself at one of the sources of our Western consumption.
Anti-malaria pill
In this idyllic place, sleeping seems such a waste of time that I didn’t rest all night. In addition, my anti-malaria pill, mandatory to travel to Laos, hadn’t gone down well. I’m still in good shape, though, since we’re finally on our way to an excursion!
First fishing village
Early in the morning, we go to learn how to fish with Hoi An Ecotour. Our guide for this excursion, Bao, which means ‘storm’ in Vietnamese, picks us up directly at the hotel. Rice paddies line up the way to the harbour. It is the first time I can see them that close and the intensity of their shade of green struck me. My companion is even feeling jealous that our lawn isn’t that green. I already imagine his attempts to turn our turf into a rice field when we go back!
Walking through a small fishing village, I notice how clean these houses are. Even if they can look a bit dilapidated sometimes, you could eat off the floor. And if leaves have fallen on someone’s doorstep, they’re already being swept up. Dignity isn’t a question of means.
The small fishing port of Hoi An
My nostrils tingle at the smell of the ocean and we pull into the lovely little fishing port of Hoi An. The assistant on board, Em (‘the big brother’), is waiting for us in one of those famous round floating baskets that seem impossible to steer. However, in two or three strokes, he takes us easily to the big boat, which is entirely reserved for us.
Colourful boats are spread out on the sea, huge yellow fishing nets are stretching out in the distance. I can feel the smell of the ocean, the sound of the waves and the music of the masts. The weather is warm, all is calm. I am feeling deeply relaxed and happy.
Net fishing (from a boat)
As the boat leaves the harbour, I notice, in the distance, a couple of fishermen practising with a net. We are invited onto the boat to do the same, which is fun, though unstable. Our crew applauds each one of our (pretty lame) attempts, it’s a great atmosphere. On my first try, I catch a gi-gan-tic shrimp. What a great feeling to be holding this tiny treasure in my hand! It is so expensive back home!
My companion had chosen to visit Asia. On my side, the reason why I had accepted was the perspective of meeting these mysterious little hands that feed and clothe us. In Europe, importing is so much cheaper than producing. There I was, finally holding one of these products in its raw state, untouched of additives, free of packaging, and without it having travelled thousands of kilometres.
One attempt at fishing and there it was a treasure in my hand! I had the sensation of touching much more than a shrimp: the hidden source of our Western daily life.
The war among the coconut trees – Cam Thanh
Once back on the big boat, we go pass an island which, up close, is actually a forest of coconut trees whose feet are bathing in the sea. Bao explains that the war raged in this area. At the bottom of this river lay many bodies of soldiers, especially American ones who got ambushed by the very clever Vietnamese. Local fighters would hide in the water at high tide, breathing through a bamboo rod, and then dig a hole in the sand at low tide to hide.
The fishing village of Cam Thanh
In order to board the village, we have to get off the big boat and take the floating basket. During the trip, Em and Bao turn coconut leaves into toys.
The mayor’s handmade house
We visit the mayor in his beautiful waterfront house which he built on his own, using bamboo and fishing line. His wife provides us with tea in a service that she hand-carved from coconuts. Bao advises me to eat the candied ginger that is offered to us, as it’s good for the stomach. Indeed I feel much better afterwards.
Getting to know Vietnamese people
Having tea is always the opportunity for a good chat and in this case, we get learn more about Bao, our lovely guide. He grew up in a small isolated village and dreams of becoming a tour guide in Hanoi. He went to university to learn English for two years and since then has been reading a lot of books to improve himself. His desire to learn is touching, especially as he has a very good level of English: our conversation is fluent.
We then stroll through the lovely little village until we meet Em and his floating basket on the other side.
As we board the main boat, Em is so kind as to clean the mud off our feet. I feel a little embarrassed at first, but he does it so gently that it doesn’t feel like a superiority/inferiority ratio. Even though his level of English made communication more difficult, I really appreciated his presence as well: he’s a very energetic, good-natured guy.
This is the first day I’ve actually been immersed alongside the locals and it appears obvious that Vietnamese people are not a lot. After all, the opposite would be surprising given that over the past 50 years, they have kicked out the most powerful nations on the planet! First it was the Japanese in ’45, then French in ’54, finally the Americans and the Chinese in the ’70s – with a toothpick against armour!
Set net fishing course
It is quite amusing to note that these large constructions are actually made from very simple materials: tree trunks and fishing nets. The design is ingenious: the net is attached by strings that are actionned from little huts. By means of pedals, one can either lower to raise the fishing net by means of pedals. It’s quite simple but effective.
On the first catch, I get a very small fish, but really cute. I release him into the sea.
The fishermen couple are named ‘Bo’ which means ‘servants’. They reassure me that fish do not come out much during the day. They tend to go out of their home in the evening, ‘when the tourists are sleeping’, jokes Mr Bo. Our presence does not disturb the fishing too much, then. On the contrary, tourism allows fishermen to have two sources of income within the same day. This comes in handy as a kilo of shrimps sells for only $6.
Bao also explains to me that Mr Bo’s curled up arm is a war wound. War suddenly becomes real, out of the TV screens. I feel much respect towards this man who keeps on fishing despite his injury.
Meal of our catch
We go back on our boat to enjoy the delicious meal our “Captain Cook” has prepared from what we have fished in the morning. When I say “we”, I mean mainly Mrs and Mr Bop, obviously. It’s so fresh that it is really tasty: stuffed squid on rice cakes, egg rolls and shrimps (including mine).
For the ambiance, our neighbouring boat full Singapore tourists broadcast the very old French song “L’Aventura”. Unbelievable! And very funny: as they realise we are French our bewilderment made everyone laugh. French colonization really took its toll!
Back to the hotel: swimming
To recover from our emotions, we go back to the hotel’s private beach for a swim. It’s a bit like back home in the Atlantic, except that the water is super warm, less salty, and there are fewer waves. The picture is a bit foggy because of the heat.
After nap, we will meet with Ha once again for an historical of Hoi An.
